Over 2 years ago, I used duck canvas and cut out a simple tent (
post).
I've been using that same tent unmodified ever since.
I've even used the same pole setup. The poles go in oarlocks mounted on the coaming.
I use the same poles to hold up a tarp so that the boat can be stored outside. The rain runs off very well. Snow, not so much.
Unfortunately, I've gone through a number of tent poles. Fibreglass ones have broken under snowload and aluminum ones have bent because of the arc needed. I've even broken aluminum tent poles as well.
I have some serious plans to camp on the boat this summer and I need a reliable rain cover to sleep under and I would like to have a more durable storage solution.
This post will be about my effort to rebuild that old tent and keep myself dry if it rains.
Tent Poles
I went through a lot of poles. Fibreglass broke under snow load during the winter (and cleaning up broken fibreglass tent poles is nasty). I switched to aluminum tent poles, but they were bending under the load. One even broke. They were relatively cheap, so I would just occasionally replace them, but I was still unhappy with the results. That's when I realized that the ends were bending near the mounts and that it might be easy to relieve some tension on the poles if I just work with the bend. I found some tent poles with angles at
Quest Outfitters.
I eventually decided on .340 poles with 145deg angles at each side.
1x 13" pole + 1x 145deg angle + 5x 13" poles + 1x 145deg angle + 1x 13" pole.
They look like this when on the garage floor:
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| Tent pole |
And on the boat:
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| On the boat in the oarlocks. |
There is not nearly the amount of stress on the pole as before. I think this will stand up even under snow load.
Oarlock holders
I did have another problem. I was using stainless hose clamps to stop the poles from falling too far down into the oarlocks. The clamps were scratching my ipe finish wood, so I wanted a way to hold the poles in place without the hose clamp.
I went out and bought new plastic
oarlock sleeves.
I drove a couple of stainless nails through the bottom of the sleeves, then filled them with thickened epoxy. After that cured, I drilled down to just above the nails.
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| You can see the nails |
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| They hold the tent poles. |
The best part is that I can always buy more sleeves for real oars if I ever put them in.
Snaps
So now I have a good pole setup. I just need a place to attach the tent to keep it taut. In version 1.0, the tent hung very loose and was attached at the back and front with turn style connectors. There is a bungee that went over the cabin top and held the front taut In version 2.0, I wanted to use
fabric snaps. I ordered some and attached:
- 3x studs on the coamings in front of the oarlocks (per side)
- 3x studs on the coamings aft of the oarlocks (per side) (not pictured)
- 5x studs on the aft transom
- 1x turn connectors under the coaming where it connects to the cabin side
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| 5x studs on the transom |
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| The one turn connector under the coaming and 3x snap studs afore of the oarlocks. |
(Note: I omitted a lot of details here about overdrilling and filling.)
Tent
Now that we have poles and a place to snap the tent, we can finally adjust the tent.
I didn't make any changes to the bungee that goes over the cabin top. I didn't want to put any snaps there in case fingers would need to slide over the cabin top.
I marked the tent for the snaps and made sure everything was tight. I then proceeded to attach the snaps.
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| Three of the snaps are installed Note that it's not taut because the back snaps are not on. |
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| View from inside the tent. Plenty of room. |
It was rather tedious work because I wanted to only do 3 snaps a time to make sure I got everything taut. That meant hauling the tent off the boat, hammering 3 snaps, then putting it all back on again.
Once I got the snaps installed, then I had to sew up the edges. I'm not great with a sewing machine, but I can do it.
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| Installed |
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| Closeup of the snaps and the turn connector |
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| Inside shot |
The hardest part was the stern. I needed to make room for the traveler. I chose to make a cut and sew it up very well so that it doesn't unravel. I don't think this will leak too badly if it rains.
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| Cut slots for the traveler |
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| Traveler |
But I'm worried the canvas tent will leak a little bit in the rain. I might find some fabric water proof spray and apply it.
Tarp Tent
I still want a rain proof shelter.
I had purchased an inexpensive Harbor Freight tarp that was way too big for its intended use.
I cut it up to make the same tent with the same fabric snaps.
I don't think this tent will be very durable, but I can easily make a new and improved one. There will likely be a version 3.0 of tents after I learn a bit more.
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| Aft view |
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| duct tape seals the holes and stops rip |
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| side view |
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| fore view |
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| 3/4 view |
Summary
This tent should now be functional and easy to use.
I'll probably try using the tarp tent for storage during light rain rather than using a full tarp and the tie downs that I'm using now. I don't think it will hold out moisture well during very heavy rain storms, but for light squalls outside while she is stored, it should be fine.
This was a great project and I'm really happy to have it done and to try it all out.
