The simple 6mm standoffs I built are now done and attached. This seems to keep the rope & tackle away from the sides. It still bumps occasionally, but not nearly as bad as before.
In the pictures below, you can just see the standoffs.
|See the standoffs under the cleat and under the padeye?|
|Another shot of the fully attached fairlead.|
Skeg trailer hitches
I got this idea from Simeon. In this thread on the SCAMP message board, he talked about tying a rope through his skegs to his trailer. I thought that was a good idea as I've never liked the belly strap method where the straps go up & over and have the possibility of marring or breaking the coamings.
But I didn't like the idea of threading a rope through the skegs each time. I rather liked the idea of toggle bolts instead.
I ordered some 5/16" toggle bolts that were rated to like 900lbs on the pull through. If I were to do this over again, I'd use 3/8" or 1/2" toggle bolts instead. I also ordered some short webbing straps and stainless black 1 1/2" fender washers.
Then I got to work drilling holes in the skegs.
After piloting, I used a 1 1/2" paddle bit to chow a hole in the side of the skeg.
|Hole in the skeg|
|Hole with washer inserted.|
Then I filled the hole with thickened epoxy glue and glued the washer in. It's easiest to sink the washer in just a little bit so it is a mm or so below the surface. You can fair this later with thickened epoxy.
|Washers glued in and tape over them to hold|
|Toggle bolt and eye nut in place|
|And here it is with the strap in place|
|Shot after fairing a bit.|
|toggle bolt though the hole|
|port side in place|
|and tied down.|
|shot of the interior with the toggle in place|
I used it just today and it worked fine.
I wanted to re-do my downhaul so that I could get more tension on the luff of the sail. I had been using a single block/v-cleat combo to pull it down, but it was hard to reach and hard to get leverage.
I decided to do something more like the plans. To do that, I wanted to have a fairlead and cleat on the cabin top. When I built the cabin top, I had placed a doubler under the cabin top where I knew I might want a cam cleat.
I just needed to create a block of wood to raise the cleat up just a little bit. I cut that from some spare chunks of doubled up 6mm plywood and re-coated that with epoxy.
Then I had to sand it down to fit flush on the curved surface. I used a trick I learned from Dan bcbimmer. Just tape a piece of sandpaper on the curved cabin top and rub the piece back and forth.
|Shaping the block to fit the surface|
|Just before gluing down the block|
|dry fitting the parts where they belong (oops, the cam cleat is upside down)|
|Pilot holes drilled and glued down. Fillet applied|
|dry fitting the parts|
|Finally, it's painted|
A line on the padeye on the boom will go down and through a double block mounted just next to the mast box. From there, it will go back up to a block mounted on the same padeye on the boom and back down through the double block. Then it goes after through the fairlead and cam cleat. This gives me a 2:1 purchase. Not as good as some others, but I can fix it later with more blocks if needed.