CVE-2014-3566 POODLE

Some vulnerability details were released today about the POODLE vulnerability.

That poor dog

I've done some analysis for users of F5's BIG-IP and posted it.

The short story is that POODLE exploits something we've known about for some time. There is the bit about forcing clients to fallback to the older SSLv3 protocol. That's rather clever but not really novel.

If you run a server, you should disable SSLv3. There are lots of ways to do that. Frankly, you should disable TLSv1.0 also and support only TLS1.2 for reasons I blogged about 18 months ago.

The frustrating part is that as a consumer there isn't much you can do about this at all. My version of Safari won't let me disable SSLv3. At least I can't find how to do it. Chrome and FF will probably update themselves eventually.

This has been an interesting year in my field.

Anchor box?

I think I had a brilliant plan to build an anchor box into the port seat behind B4. I'd build a deep box that went all the way down to the hull bottom and would be wide enough for a flat fluke anchor and the  rode. I'd cut the seat top just like over the centerboard.
When I was in West Marine, I forgot to measure the fluke anchor they have. According to this page, I think the 19" shaft will be too long. I'll need to find something smaller. Maybe I can put in a small hatch on seat and then use a mushroom anchor.

I'll keep watching other builds to see what they do.

Other builds that are well journaled:

• #70, bcbimmer on the SCAMP forum
• #243, Woodnmetalguy
• #268 Shackleton

Big electrical purchase today

I spent the afternoon in West Marine; I made some decisions about the electrical and needed to execute my plan.

First, I ordered the well recommended Casey book on Sailboat Electrics. That won't be here until Tuesday, but not actually having knowledge hasn't stopped me before.

First, I gathered what I knew:

1. I needed to physically fit the battery through a hatch opening 20" x 9". It could be no taller than about 8 1/2".
2. The 12V trolling motor that I ordered uses 50 amps when full open. I'd like to have around 2 hours at full open. That means 100AmpHour battery.
3. I have no idea how to mount the battery so it doesn't move.
4. I want a 12v system to run a GPS chart plotter and maybe a VHF radio. These have to be removable so that I can stow them safely.
5. I want LED navigation lights on a switch.
6. I want cabin lights (this is easy, LED strip lights).

I can't believe that it took me over an hour, but I had a lot of decisions to make. In the store, I could design all the details in my head.

I had a simple wiring diagram drawn in pencil. Once I had everything purchased, I enhanced it (thanks to Digikey):

Wiring diagram

For inside the well, I bought:

1. 79AH AGM battery (group 24) and a housing for it. This has a little less capacity than I wanted, but should still have plenty of juice. And it will definitely fit in the well and I know I can mount the  housing inside the well.
2. a 350 amp battery main switch. They didn't have anything smaller that I could mount easily. 
3. some 6 AWG red & black wire from the battery terminals to a 100A dual bus. This can carry 50A to the trolling motor without burning up.
4. A 10AWG lead with connectors from the trolling motor section. Half will be connected  directly to the battery. (The version I bought had round lugs on it, the one on the link doesn't.)
5. A 15A offboard charger. I'll cut off the clamps and add the other 1/2 of the connector from #4. Then I can just drop the charger in the boat, connect it and 6 hours later have a fully charged battery.
6. A fuse holder and a 30A fuse. This will go from the bus bar up front to the switch panel. I used a 30A fuse so that I could use 10AWG wire to the switch panel.
7. All the crimp connectors I needed.

To mount on B3:

1. A 4 circuit breaker/switch panel with 2x 12v cigarette adapters. Unfortunately, one of the switches controls the two 12v adapters, so that leaves me with only 3 switches. Which is just enough, but I may regret no more space later. The panel has 15A circuit breaker switches. I think this means it could handle up to 60A, but that would have been #6 wire all the way to the panel and that seemed ridiculous, so I fused it at 30A so I could use 10AWG.

I even bought some accessories, like cable clips, screws and velcro.

I don't know where the nav lights will live, so I didn't buy any.

And I don't want to invest in a GPS or VHF quite yet.

It was an expensive trip, but I know what I can do this week.

What's really weird: I wanted to ground everything to the chassis. Duh, you can't do that on a wooden boat. And when I work with the FIRST robotics program, they won't let you do it for the robot either. At least FIRST supplies you with a ground bus.

I have an idea on how to mount the GPS and radio on B4 so that it is easily visible, although I may do like Noddy and put it inside on B3.

Now, I need to start laying out components and crimping connectors onto wires. I'll mount the battery box down, but I'll probably have to cut it up a bit to get it to fit correctly. Then I can finish priming and painting behind B3 so that I can get everything permanently mounted.

I do still need some strain relief and preferably a waterproof (yeah right) grommet for when I run though the bulkheads. I know bcbimmer is using PEX as a conduit. That seems like a good idea. 

I'll also need to figure out how the motor will be wired. Hopefully that will arrive this week.

Still drilling for hatches

Today I spent even more time drilling for hatches, this time on the seats.
I also spent some time cleaning up the ones in the forward hatches.

Tape spots over the 1/4" holes

More tape

I wanted to prime the rudder, but after sanding, I still felt it wasn't fair enough.
So I slapped on another coat of 410 thickened epoxy, this time applied with a foam brush. It looks very good and maybe I'll get around to sanding it this week. Hopefully then it can get primed and painted and then I can get one big checkmark done.
Although I still need to make a tiller and put on the pintles & gudgeons.

Another coat of 410.

I sanded this by hand with 120 for tooth for the primer

Oh, and the 410 is easy to sand. Easier than the TAP microballons. Almost too easy. The jury is still out on when I will will use microballons and when to use 410.

Finishing the area behind B3

Last night, I painted the 3rd coat of epoxy on the area behind bulkhead 3 and in the water ballast well. I tinted the epoxy with white pigment to make sure that I got all areas covered.
I think it turned out well.

tinted epoxy

Then I dry fit the hatches back on drilled pilot holes for the hold down screws. Both for the upright hatches on B3 and for the ones on the sole behind B3.

Hatches in place

Hatches in place

Then i used a 1/4" bit to drill the holes out. I filled them with epoxy thickened with wood flour (that was actually my filleting mix for the last few weeks). From a discussion with Howard, you shouldn't use silica for this, it gets too brittle. And you shouldn't use microballoons because they are too weak.
Wood flour has good strength properties and gives the screw threads something to bite.

Tape over the filled holes

closeup of tape

This is the sole.

I mixed up some 410 fairing compound and rolled that on the rudder top. I'll sand that tomorrow and prime the rudder top and the rudder foil.

A quick note, I really liked the microballons from TAP plastic much better than the 410 fairing compound from West Systems. It mixes in a whole lot better and looks consistent. I'll see tomorrow how well the 410 sands. Supposedly it's great to sand.

Caught up

Most of the pictures up to now haven't been live; I had taken them awhile ago and was posting older photos with a description. Tonight, I finally caught up. I put coat number 2 of epoxy on the sanded surfaces behind B3, the ballast well and over the new hatch doublers.

Shiny new epoxy

You can see the cleat that will hold up the sole in the front. There is another one on the port side, but you can't see it.

back of the hatch

looking through the seat at the transom doubler.

This weekend, I plan to put on a 3rd coat of epoxy then prime the rudder foil and maybe the rudder head as well if it's ready. I think that will need some micro balloon fairing.

I also plan to do some more sanding under the seats and maybe I can get a 2nd & 3rd coat of epoxy in there.

I'll need to do some planning around the batteries and electrical as well.

Transom doublers

Since I bought the trolling motor, I would need to double up the transom under the seats for sure. I cut some rough approximations of the are under the cleats and shaped them with the shinto rasp.

I did this for port and starboard.

I decided to go with 2x 9mm doublers on each side.

The doublers cut from scrap

doublers

I glued the first one on and used a spreader clamp to push it.

spreader on port side

spreader on starboard side.

After that was cured, I mixed up some wood flour filleting mix and filled in the sides that were rough. Then I glued in the second set of plates. While that was curing, I filleted that.

I may get some pictures and add a new post.

This should be plenty beefy for the motor mount.