The last few days, I've been cleaning up inside the seat wells in preparation for gluing on the seat tops.
I didn't get any pictures, but I used some epoxy with 410 fairing to smooth out the inside. I used a squeegee to roll on thin coats where needed.
I then sanded inside the wells and put a 2nd coat of epoxy over everything.
Now I just need to wait awhile for it to cure. I'll give it a quick sanding with 80 grit to give it tooth and then prime it.
As long as I was messing with the seats, I decided I could glue up the centerboard cover. It needs to have a block put under it so that it fits in the centerboard trunk. Additionally, it needs to have a lock on one end so that it stays put and won't jump out. It turns out I've got some pecan hardwood tongue & groove flooring that is nearly perfect. I used a table saw to rip it down to the right width, chopping off the tongue and the groove. Then I use the leftover tongue to cut a small piece that would fit in the groove on the end. That will be the lock. It doesn't need much.
Then I pondered how to glue the pieces together. I decided that I could use packing tape to make a little hammock to hold the flooring at just the right spot.
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See the packing tape hammock on the right? |
I also added more packing tape and scotch tape to make sure nothing got glued that wasn't supposed to be glued.
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I slipped the tongue in the groove. I'll put glue on the ends and glue it inside the trunk. |
I also wrapped the end of the flooring in packing tape to make sure I didn't glue the tongue in the groove.
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The fore end, again wrapped in tape. The lateral piece is the hammock. |
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Cap is on top of the pieces suspended in the tape hammocks. |
I then put the cap on and made sure I knew where I wanted it in relation to the seat. I put on one coat of epoxy, then mixed up some silica glue and smeared that on. Then I put the cap on and weighted it down. A few hours later, I took the cap out and it looked great.
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The tongue is glued in. I'll re-coat that with epoxy. |
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Here you can see the groove on the flooring and the tongue in the centerboard trunk |
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Finally, here is a shot of the whole thing. I'll coat it and seal it up. |
Tomorrow the epoxy in the seat wells will likely still be green and will sand poorly, so I can't sand that. I have a couple other projects like the
anchor rode storage that I still might build.
Jeff -
ReplyDeleteNice solution to capturing the aft end of the centerboard cap. That should work just fine. On the filler plug, epoxy coating and or paint does make for a tighter fit. I ended up having to later plane down the edges and re-coat as it was too snug in the trunk.
You may want to think about gluing in some 4"-6" cleats along the hull to support the outboard edge of the seat tops; centered between B5 & B6 and B7 & B8. Maybe not necessary as the seat top glue/fillet bond should be sufficient, but because of the large B5/B6 hatch, and the fact that guests tend to want to step there when they board, it may help to eliminate flex.
I had a more than desirable gap in these areas on my build and so it helped in filling it in with the glue & fillet. In my build it did mean having to gently relieve (notch) the under-seat hatch support cleats on the outboard sides.
Simeon